Correct dimension of print

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Dear All,

Today we will learn how calculate the real size dimension of print.

Suppose, you have got a print art work from your buyer with only mentioned the measurement of length, but we also need the correct width of print for making the correct sample.

Though it is the responsibility of print factories/designer, but it is also essential for you to know this calculation. Because, many times we found that, buyer provided design is not placing correctly in  all the sizes, also some time the print designer make mistake  during scaling the print design.  

So, it is very essential for a merchandiser to know the calculation process to ensure that, the design & dimension is correct.

Please find below process –

Actually the real size calculations process is very very simple -----

If you don’t have the hard copy of print art work then at first print the art work.

Suppose,

In the art work, buyer has mentioned the length of print is 30 cm tall. But he has not mentioned the width of the print.

Now, at first take the measurement of print length & width from the printed copy of paper.

Suppose, you found

Print length 21 cm (but in real size it should be 30 cm, as per written on the art work)

Print width 16 cm (We should find out real size measurement of this print width)

As, we got the measurement of print length is 21 cm instead of 30 cm. So, the proportional rate will be as under:

= Require measurement of print length / measurement of print length, which we got from the printed paper.

= 30 / 21

= 1.4286

So, the real size print width will be

= 16 cm (print width, which we got from paper copy) X 1.4286

= 22.85 cm. (this is the real size print width)

If any one have any doubt regarding above calculations process then please call or mail me.

Thanks 

Bipul

How do calculate the yarn consumption of a Yarn dyed t-shirt?

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Today we will learn how we can book the yarn for bulk dyeing.

Suppose, you receive a yarn dyed t-shirt order from buyer. Details as below

Style: 100% cotton, Single jersey, 160 gsm yarn dyed round neck t-shirt.

Color:  Beige/Navy (only one combo)

Quantity: 10,000 pcs (in four sizes, S, M, L & XL)

Stripe: Beige 7 cm & Navy 1.5 cm (Total 8.5 cm)

Body length: 73 cm

Sleeve length: 19.5 cm

½ Chest: 52 cm

Consumption: 2.78 kgs/dozen (considering total wastage 18%) you may use this for pricing. Normally the wastage of yarn dyed garments depends on styling. 

Normal wastage for yarn dyed:

Dyeing (yarn) wastage: 6%

Knitting wastage: 3%

Wash wastage: 5%

So, you should need 116 kgs yarn to produce 100 kgs fabric

But be careful, during the bulk yarn booking you should booked the yarn based on the consumption you got by using pattern & marka. Some time I saw buyer asked for match the body stripe with sleeve then the cutting wastage become more than 5%.

We know the body length is 73 cm

Where, beige color stripe is 7 cm

And Navy color stripe is 1.5 cm

Then total length of one repetition is 8.5 cm

So, we need total (73/8.5) = 8.58824 repletion to complete a body (but here we will count 9 repetition for cutting & sewing wastage.)

So, total sum of Navy stripe will be (1.5 cm X 8.58824) = 12.8824 cm

And total sum of Beige color stripe will be (7 cm X 8.58824) = 60.1177 cm

So, 12.8824 cm + 60.1177 cm = 73 cm (total body length)

Now we just calculate the percentage of each color in a body

Navy color percentage in the body will be

= (12.8824 ÷ 73) %

= 17.65 %

= (60.1177÷73) %

= 82.35 %

= 17.65 + 82.35

= 100 %

So, now if the consumption is 2.78 kg

Then

Navy color will be = 0.49067 kg ( 2.78 kg X 17.65% )

And Beige color will be = 2.28933 kg ( 2.78 kg X 82.35% )

In this above way you can booked the yarn

Hope everything is clear to all.

Thanks & best regards

Bipul

Calculate the real size measurement.

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Real size measurement

Normally at the beginning of any new style/order buyer has send us a Size spec & art work of the styling with others some information’s such as print /embroidery design or stripe width (if it yarn dyed).

   

But sometime, buyer did not give us the real size measurement of print/embroidery/stripe repetition etc.

In this situation you can easily find out the real size measurement without knocking buyer again & again.

Suppose buyer has sent you a art work of yarn dyed t-shirt along with size spec. But you found that, stripe width & repetition is not mentioned anywhere in the art work. Then what you will do?

Suppose,

The body length is 73 cm (from hps)

½ chests is 52 cm

And we know 1 cm = 10 millimeter (mm)

Now print the art work and take the measurement of body length (on the printed paper)

Suppose it is 7.3 cm or 73 mm, so the Proportional rate between real size and the printed paper size is 73 cm ÷ 7.3 cm = 10 (remember it)

Now take the measurement of stripe repetition

Suppose you found it is 8.5 mm, so the real size repetition measurement will be 8.5 mm X 10 = 85 mm

So, now we can tell that, the real size repetition (measurement) will be 85 mm ÷ 10 = 8.5 cm (1 cm = 10 mm).

So now we understand that the main thing is Proportional rate, by which we can calculate the measurement of any part.

If you have still any doubt then please call me  +8801717 264756  

Thanks & best regards

Bipul

AQL TABLE (For Apparel Sector)

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Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)


Before (if you are a seller) using this table you should confirm with your

buyer regarding the level of inspection (which level they prefer).

Thanks 

Bipul

Table for Single Lacost

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Single Lacost

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Bipul

Single Jersey Fabric

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RELATION BETWEEN YARN COUNT, FABRIC TYPE, MACHINE DIA,
STITCH LENGTH AND FINISH GSM:

Fabric Type	Yarn count	Stitch length (mm)	Color	Machine Dia	Machine Gauge	Finished diameter (inch)	Finished GSM
Plain S/j	18s/1	2.94	White	26	24	30	220-230
Plain S/j	20s/1	2.98	White	30	24	33.5	200-210
Plain S/j	24s/1	2.68	White	30	24	32	175-185
Plain S/j	26s/1	2.66	White	30	24	31	160-170
Plain S/j	28s/1	2.70	Avg	26	24	25	150-160
Plain S/j	30s/1	2.68	Avg	30	24	30	130-140
Plain S/j	34s/1	2.40	Avg	26	24	24	125-135
Plain S/j	40s/1	2.44	Avg	24	24	20	100-110

From the above  tables, we can summarize the above data:
                                                               For Single Jersey fabric

finished Gsm	Count	Finished Diameter
140	30s/1	Machine dia = Finished dia
160	26s/1	Machine dia +1 = Finished dia
180	24s/1	Machine dia + 2 = Finished dia
200	20s/1	Machine dia + 3 = Finished dia
220	18s/1	Machine dia + 4 = Finished dia

N.B: If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less than the normal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric by removing the floating fibre and hairy fibre

For average color, the finished GSM varies 2-4%
If the GSM varies 25-30%, it is not only necessary to control the VDQ pulley dia but also yarn tension & take-up roller


(Collected)
Thanks & best regards
Bipul

Some Common Yarn Count.

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List of some most used yarn count

The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting process are given:

YARN COUNT:

a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne.

b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne.

c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne.

d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne.

e) Spandex: 20D, 40D, 70D.

f) Polyester: 75D, 150D.

g) Sewing thread: 50/2, 40/2, 75D, 150D etc.

Thanks & best regards
Bipul

Fabric Defects (knit)

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Fabric Defects


Please find below some common fabric defect:


A skewed of Bias: Condition where courses are not square with wale lines on knit. 


Barrie: Occurs in circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine. Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks.

Birdseye: Caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually two small distorted stitches, side by side.

Bowing: Usually caused by finishing in knits the course lines lie in an arc across width of goods. Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid color fabrics.

Broken color pattern: Usually caused by color yarn out of place on frame.

Crease Streak : Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.

Drop stitches: Results from malfunctioning needle or Jack. Will appear as holes, or missing stitches.

End out : Occurs in warp knit. Results from knitting Machine continuing to run with missing end.

Hole: Caused by broken needle.

Missing Yarn: Occurs in warp knit. Results from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye.

Mixed Yarn: Occurs in warp knit. Result from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye.

Needle Line: Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Usually vertical line.

Pin Holes: Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through stenter frame. Major if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough to be visible in the finished product.

Press-Off: When all or some of the needles on circular knitting fail to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Many knitting needles are broken and have to be replaced when bad press-off occurs. Bad press-off usually start a new roll of fabric.

Runner: Usually caused by broken needle, will appear as vertical line. (Most of the machines have a stopping device to stop machine when a needle breaks)

Sanforize Pucker: From ueeven wetting out on sanforize; usually caused by defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy of puckering when spreads on cutting table. Difficult to detect during inspection on inspection Machine with fabric under roller tension.

Slub (knit Fabric) : Usually caused by thick or heavy place in yarn, or by ling getting onto yarn feeds.

Straying End: Caused when an end of yarn breaks and the loose end strays and is knit irregularly into another area.

Collected

Thanks & best regards

Bipul