Sunday, January 29, 2012

Viscose Fabric Dyeing Method

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100% Viscose Fabric Dyeing Method



Many times we got some inquiry from buyer for viscose fabric. Thought this fabric has some advantage, but also it has so many disadvantages which found in the dyeing process.

Viscose fabric is not a common fabric like as cotton. The hand feelings of this fabric are same as silk & soft.   

Viscose yarn is a kind of yarn which made from cellulose base. Viscose is a type of man-made fiber but it is not a synthetic fiber like as polyester, because it is made from natural materials, but it is heavily processed.

Advantages of Viscose

Fabric which is made from viscose yarn is that takes dyes very well, so that, we can work with a wide variety of colors. Viscose fabric is very shiny; also it stays bright and colorful throughout the life of the products made with it. So, if you want to work with various kind of bold and colorfast fabric then you can choose viscose.   

Disadvantages of Viscose fabric

1)     Fabric tearing possibility is very high during the dyeing process.
2)     If the fabric remain wet for long times then some spot creates on it’s, which removal process is very difficult. But in cotton fabric we can do this very easily.
3)     If the fabric dyed uneven then it is very difficult to remove.
4)     During the dyeing process if we fail to maintain the temperature & pressure properly then fabric strength will be reduce.


Fabric 100% Viscose, S/Jersey Fabric, 160 GSM


Dyeing Process of 100% Viscose Fabric:

Actually viscose dyeing process is almost same as single jersey cotton spandex fabric. However, please find below the dyeing process.  


·         1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 
·         2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric.
·         3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash.
·         4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric.
·         5th Step: Acid wash (after released color mixing water) 
·         6th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 

          Finishing process of the fabric (After dyeing) -

·         7th Step: Slitting 
·         8th Step: Stentering (heat settings) for dia adjust.
·         9th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length. 

Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.

However, I always suggest everybody to avoid the order with viscose fabric. Because dyeing of this is very risky & costly also.

Hope, it will be helpful for all of you


Thanks & best regards
Bipul

Peach (carbonic) finished fabric dyeing & finishing method.

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Suede or Peach (carbonic) finished fabric dyeing & finishing method.

Dear All,

The dyeing process of Sueded or Peach finished fabric same as like others fabric, only in the fabric finishing we used some extra process. Please find below the dyeing process

Fabrication: 100% cotton, Single Jersey Peach finished (carbonic), 160 GSM.
 

A) Dyeing

1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 

2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric.

3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash.

4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric.

5th Step: Acid washes (after released color mixing water) 

6th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 

7th Step: Softener.

B) Finishing

For tube form

8th Step: Squeezer
9th Step: Dryer.
10th Step: Suedeing or Peach (in the face side of fabric) with suede machine.  
11th Step: Compacting

For open width fabric

8th Step: Slitting
9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust)
10th Step: Suedeing or Peach (in the face side of fabric) with suede machine.
10th Step: Stentering
10th Step: Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control)

Regarding the peach finished fabric please be careful regarding the neck rib & body color. Some time we found that rib & body color are not matching. Also we found hole in the fabric.
   
Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.

Regards
Bipul

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Fleece Fabric Dyeing Method

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Dear All,

Actually the dyeing process of fleece fabric same as like others fabric, only in the fabric finishing we used some extra process. Please find below the dyeing process

Fabrication: 100% cotton, One side brush fleece, 260 GSM.

A) Dyeing

1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 

2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric.

3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash.

4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric.

5th Step: Acid washes (after released color mixing water) 

6th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 

7th Step: Softener.

B) Finishing

For tube form

8th Step: Squeezer
9th Step: Dryer.
10th Step: Brush inside (terry side) with brushing machine.
11th Step: Compacting

For open width fabric

8th Step: Slitting
9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust)
10th Step: Brush inside (terry side) with brushing machine.
10th Step: Stentering
10th Step: Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control)


Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting. 


Regards
Bipul


Grey Melange Fabric Dyeing Method (process)

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Dear All,

Actually Grey Melange fabric not need to dye, because yarn shade is already as per our requirement.

So, when we calculate the fabric price of Grey melange fabric,

We only quote the below things
  1. Yarn price 
  2. Knitting charge + knitting wastage
  3. Fabric Washing & finishing cost (which we done in dyeing factory) + wastage. For this reason we got the Grey melange fabric very quickly from dyeing. 


However, please find below washing & finishing process of grey melange. 

Fabrication: 90% cotton 10% viscose, Sing jersey.

Dyeing(washing)

1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 

2nd Step: Per-oxide wash

3rd Step: Acid washes 

4th Step: Softener.

B) Finishing


For tube form

8th Step: Squeezer
9th Step: Dryer.
10th Step: Shrinkage Report (Optional)
11th Step: Tube Compacting


For open width fabric

8th Step: Slitting
9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust)
10th Step: Open Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control)


Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Gsm before start cutting.

Regards
Bipul

Dyeing process of Lycra Single Jersey Fabric

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Single Jersey Spandex (Lycra) Fabric

Dear All, 

Today I will share with you a very important dyeing process. Some times we got query from buyer for Fabric with spandex. All of these the most common require fabrication is - 95% cotton 5% spandex, Single jersey  , 160 GSM. From the fiber market we can got many kinds spandex for knitting the fabric. Denier is the unit of Spandex. The common denier is 20D, 40D & 70D. Fiber thickness of 20D is thin then 40D. And 70D is thicker then 40D. Lycra is a brand (name) of Spandex.  

In single jersey spandex fabric it is very difficult to keep the GSM lower. If you intending to produce the s/j cotton spandex fabric in between 155 to 165 GSM then please follow the below things:

Fabric 95% cotton 5% spandex, Single Jersey, 160 GSM

Yarn count should be - 40/s comb
Spandex should be - 20D
Stitch Line should be - 2.80

Dyeing Process of Single Jersey Cotton Spandex Fabric:

  • 1st step: After receive the grey fabric from knitting section in tube form, in dyeing section, at first we slit the fabric by slitting machine. 
  • 2nd Step: Then we heat set the slitted fabric by stenter machine for avoiding the creased mark. And also for the Dia & Grey GSM fixing.

          Dyeing the fabric (in the winch)-
    • Option A) If the dyeing factory has high pressure dyeing machine (winch) then we should dye the fabric in open width. 
    • Option B) If the dyeing factory has normal dyeing winch then we should back sewing the open fabric to make it tube again.
  • 3rd Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 
  • 4th Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric.
  • 5th Step: Soda / Salt wash.
  • 6th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric.
  • 7th Step: Acid wash (after released color mixing water) 
  • 8th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 


          Finishing process of the fabric (After dyeing) -


          If we are following option (A) then step will be like as below
  • 9th Step: Stentering (heat setting) for adjust the Dia. For this again stentering we called it double heat settings. 
  • 10th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length.   
            
          If we are following option (B) then step will be like as below
  • 9th Step: Slitting 
  • 10th Step: Stentering (heat settings) for dia adjust.
  • 11th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length. 

Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.
Hope, it will be helpful for all of you


Thanks & best regards
Bipul

Friday, January 27, 2012

Fabric Dyeing process of Single Jersey Average Color

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Dyeing process of S/J Avg Clr (Any GSM)

Dyeing Process

Fabrication: 100% cotton, Single Jersey, Average Color, Any GSM

A) Dyeing

1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 

2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric.

3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash.

4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric.

5th Step: Acid washes (after released color mixing water) 

6th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 
  

7th Step: Softener.


B) Finishing

For tube form

8th Step: Squeezer

9th Step: Dryer.


10th Step: Shrinkage Report (Optional)


11th Step: Tube Compacting

For open width fabric

8th Step: Slitting


9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust)


10th Step: Open Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control)


Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.

Regards
Bipul 

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Cotton Purchase (2nd Step of Yarn Producing)

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Purchasing the cotton

Dear All,

Cotton purchasing is the most important things for a spinning factory. For producing finest quality yarn it is very important to select the correct yarn. Cotton price is also a important things.

So, before purchasing the cotton you should re check that, you are buying correct quality yarn with the latest & cheapest price? If you fail to maintain this then you will gain any profit.

Also you should need the updated knowledge regarding the yarn market & order flow.

Actually a spinning factory purchases the cotton from international & local market. Its actually depends on quantity & quality requirement. If you have not enough local source or supplier then you will need to import the cotton from international market.

Various kind of cotton is producing all over the world. This cotton has some individual quality & identity based on their own territory. So a cotton purchaser should always update himself with the quality & latest price of cotton which are producing all over the world.  



A.    Types of Cotton

By area & quality there is 4 major groups of cotton

1.    Sea Island Cotton
Sea Island cotton is the best quality cotton in the world. This cotton grown in South Carolina, Florida and Georgia of the USA. Also in the islands of the coast of these states. This Sea Island cotton commanded the highest price of all the cottons, due to its long staple 35 mm to 60 mm and its silky texture or quality. This cotton used for the finest counts of yarns and often mixed with silk.

2.     Upland Cotton or U.S Cotton
This cotton also known as Mexican cotton. This is the most widely planted species of cotton in the United States. This cotton has a number of varieties or cross-bred cultivars with varying fiber lengths and tolerances to a number of growing conditions. The average fiber length is 37 mm.

3.     Pima Cotton
This cotton is another type of cotton which staple reach up to 45 mm. This cotton is also called Peruvian and Egyptian cotton. This cotton also grown in the south western area of U.S.A

4.     Asian Cotton
The cotton which is grown in China, Japan, Pakistan & India are called Asian cotton. Its fiber is coarse and harsh. Staple of this Asian cotton can be reach up to 30 mm

Some African country also produces the cotton. Nowadays many cotton fields also produce organic cotton for special requirement of buyer.


B.    Price of Cotton

    Today's (25/01/12) cotton price also with last 06 months(June 2011 to Dec 2011)






Cotton Price of last 01 year (Dec 2010 to Dec 2011) 












Cotton Price of last 05 years (Dec 2006 to Dec 2011) 











Cotton Price of last 10 years (Dec 2001 to Dec 2011)












Cotton Price of last 15 years (Dec 1996 to Dec 2011)


Price of cotton is very very important things for yarn business as well as total apparel sector. The price of cotton differs based on the staple length & quality of cotton fiber. Cotton price also depends on the production quantity of each season. Less cotton production increases the cotton price. However you should always connect with the current cotton market.


In Bangladesh we mainly import the cotton from CIS countries.


CIS means - Commonwealth of Independent States. This (CIS) association formed in 1991, comprising Russia and 11 other republics that were formerly part of the Soviet Union. Members are Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Moldova. Its administrative center is in Minsk, Belarus.

We also import cotton from India & Pakistan.


Please note that, the staple length of cotton is very important because if you want to produce high quality yarn then you must need the long and fine staple to make high quality fine fabrics.




Cotton Store





After purchase we store the cotton at our store house of cotton. We store the cotton bale separately based on their origin & quality. For a 12 tones /day yarn producing factory we need a minimum cotton stock of 1250 tones.


Regards
Bipul 

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Setup of a Spinning Factory (1st Step of Producing Yarn)

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Dear All,

For start producing yarn at first we need to established a spinning factory. But before setup a spinning factory we should fixed the production capacity of the following spinning factory. Before fixed the production capacity we must survey the market.

Production capacity of a spinning factory can be vary based on so many things.

However, today we will be discuss regarding a spinning factory which yarn producing capacity is 12 tons per day based on average count 30/s.

If this factory produces 26/s yarn instead of 30/s then production capacity will be increased. In others hand if the said factory produce 34/s yarn then the production capacity will be reduced.

The details calculation of production capacity we will discuss later.

Please find below a details requirement of a spinning factory where the yarn production capacity of this spinning factory will be 12 tons per day.


Factory Space


We need minimum 100000 square feet area for established this factory. Where we will keep 40 feet road for goods load & unload from truck or others vehicles.


We should divided the space of factory as per process & requirement, and also as per the flow chart of production. It will be start from Input & end will be with Output. Please find below an example-

1.     Cotton store
2.     Blow room section
3.     Carding section
4.     Breaker drawing section
5.     Finisher drawing section
6.     Simplex section
7.     Ring frame section
8.     Auto cone section
9.     Packing section
10. Yarn Store.

We can put a partition between the above mentioned sections. Normally we separate the cotton store by putting a parting. Also we keep separate the blow room section. We also make a partition for packing & yarn store.

Other then above section we should keep a space for Generator room if we face electricity supply problem. Also electricity supply control room.

We also need a separate section as wastage room.

Moreover, we should need an AC room. From where we can control the condition of Air of total production floor. It is very very important for a Spinning factory. The humidity of air is controlled from this section, which is very important for correct quality of yarn.

From this AC section we controlled RH (relative humidity). If the RH of ring frame section become more than appropriate requirement then the yarn will be lapped out in the machine other side if the RH become less than appropriate requirement then the cotton will be become dry, as a result no yarn will produced and the cotton fiber will be start flying.

The normal RH for Blow room & Carding = 60 to 64%
The normal RH for breaker drawing , finisher drawing & Simplex  = 53 to 56%
The normal RH for Ring frame = 52 to 54%
The normal RH for Auto cone = 68 to 70%


Cotton Store



Cotton store is placed where we should store the cotton after import. We need a store for this factory with a minimum capacity of 1500 tons cotton. Here, we must stored the cotton by origin & lot by lot for avoid any kind of mixing. This cotton store should be ware less for avoiding any kind of accident from electricity.


Blow room Section 


We called this section as Input section. In this section we input the cotton for starting yarn production.

Blow room capacity of the following factory should be minimum 15 tons. Because we need minimum 13.8 tons cotton for 12 tons yarn production per day. Cotton wastage will be minimum 15% till to yarn output.

Find below the list of require machine for blow room section:

1.     Cotton opening or sucktion machine (blendo mat)
2.     Metal Separator machine
3.     Pre cleaner machine
4.     Multi Mixer machine
5.     Fine cleaner machine
6.     Foreign fiber detector machine
7.     Pipe for convey the cotton to each machine.


Carding Section

This section is called the heart of spinning factory. For this type of spinning factory (which production capacity is 12 tons yarn per day) is need minimum 10 pcs carding machine with a production capacity of 65 kgs per hour for fulfill the requirement of  12000 kgs yarn production per day.





Drawing Section





This drawing section has to sub section which related with each other.

In a drawing section we need 01 (one) set drawing machine. A set has two separate machines.

1.     1st drawing   Or Breaker drawing.
2.     2nd drawing  Or Finisher drawing.

This following factory has 03 (three) set Machine. That’s mean this factory has 03 pcs Breaker drawing and 03 pcs Finisher drawing machine. This is enough for supplying the sliver (cotton) for production of 12 tons yarn per day.


Simplex (roving section)

Simplex machine produced roving from sliver can. We put the 120 pcs sliver can at the back side of simplex machine and attached the sliver with the machine. For a simplex machine we need 120 pcs sliver can at a time because a Simplex machine has 120 pcs spindle or roving holder. For this reason we need large space for this section.

The following factory has 06 pcs simplex machine. So, the roving producing capacity of this factory is 6 X 120 = 720 pcs at a time. From this we also understand that, this factory is need 720 sliver can at a time.  


Ring frame section

This section produce count wise yarn from the roving of simplex.

The following factory has 52 pcs ring frame machine. Each ring frame machine (of this factory) has 516 pcs spindle.

So, the total spindle quantity of this factory is 52 X 516 = 26,832 pcs.

In the present market many ring frame machine has 1008 spindle, name of these machine is long frame machine. And the machine with 516 spindles is called as short frame machine.

If we produce high count yarn then the production capacity will be less then normal.
Or if we produce low count yarn then the production capacity will be increased. Suppose,

A ring frame machine with 516 spindles

Can be produced 70 kg per 8 hrs 30/s yarn.

But if the count is 26/s then it will be 85 kg / 8 hrs.


Auto cone section

The main act of this section is winding. This machine winding the bobbin and make cone of yarn.

An auto cone machine has 60 pcs drum and each drum has 9 magazine in its. So, we can put 60 X 9 = 540 pcs bobbin at a time in an auto cone machine. This factory has 08 pcs auto cone machines. So, the production capacity of this section is 540 X 8 4320 pcs bobbin at a time.

Packing section


This final section of spinning factory. In this section we attached the label inside the cone. This label should have some information such as – Yarn count, yarn lot & quality.

The weight of each cone is 2.08 kgs. We pour 24 cones in a bag. Gross weight of a yarn bags is 50 kgs.

We should pay extra attention in this section to avoid any kind of mixing.


Yarn store
 

In this section we store the yarn after production for delivery to the customer.



Thanks
Bipul
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