Introduction to fully fashioned knitwear (Part 09)

Presented by: Rashedul al rashid
Email: .............

Fully Fashion Knitwear

Knit fabric Notation

Knit fabric notation is the symbols which represent different types of loops.

Like: For technical face loop (V shape) indicate as T

And Technical back loop (semi circle shape) indicate as 

Importance of knit fabric notation:

Language differences and variation in terminology cause communication problem for different trade personnel from different country. Fabric description may vary even among organization within the same country. The most visually accurate way of communication is to draw full loop structure. But however accurate drawing is much more complicated and time consuming. That’s why trade personnel prefer the notation.

Notation of Single Jersey:	Notation of Double Jersey:	Notation of Rib (1×1):
T/B     T/F Í Í Í Í	T/B Í Í Í Í T/F Í Í Í Í	T/B  Í  Í T/F Í  Í 

Process Breakdown of Fully Fashioned Knitwear

Body Panel (Front or Back):

N eedle select for bottom rib by needle selector; i.e. 1×1 rib or 2×2 rib

Prepare rib height (as per requirement) B y giving courses

Loop transfer from back needle bed to front needle bed (if the body panel is in jersey) B y transfer comb

K nit upto armhole starts point

Create armhole (depends on styling) By decreasing or increasing, decreasing both.

Sleeve Panel:

N eedle select for cuff rib by needle selector; i.e. 1×1 rib or 2×2 rib

Prepare rib height (as per requirement) B y giving courses

Loop transfer from back needle bed to front needle bed (if the sleeve panel is in jersey) B y transfer comb

Knit up to armhole line starts point

Linking:

L inking right shoulder

A ttach collar rib

L ink left shoulder

A ttach sleeve panel

S ide seam close

End of operation

  

Understanding different fancy stitches/ design:

Identification:
Name of Stitch		Construction	Appearance
Shaker stitch/ Half cardigan stitch	:	Normally 1×1	T/F & T/B are not same. T/F looks fluffy/ bulky & T/B looks tight V-shape/chain stitch
Full cardigan stitch	:	Normally 1×1	T/F & T/B are same. Both looks raised V-shape.
Milano stitch	:	Normally Double jersey	T/F & T/B are not same. T/F joint V-shape & T/B chain stitch.
Zigzag stitch	:	Any construction	Waleswise
Drop knit	:	Odd construction like: 5×1, 3×1,5×2,4×3 etc	Both side not same. Could be double bedded or single bedded.
Pointal stitch	:
Tuck stitch/ Pineapple stitch	:		It covers (single or double side) with tiny holes.
Cables	:		Normal: single cross Joint Fancy: 2 lines joint cables Butterfly: 3 lines cables or more stitch
Diamond	:		Normal: single needle or double needle Fancy Diamond Pointal diamond Half diamond Pointal half diamond

Thanks and Best regards

Bipul

Introduction to fully fashioned knitwear (Part 08)

Presented by: Rashedul al rashid
Email: .............

Fully Fashion Knitwear

Rib Knitted Structure:

The word ‘rib’ derives from animals’ ribs. In this structure needle heads are not facing directly each other. Rib fabrics are composed of loops formed in opposite direction. Various types rib construction are there but common structure are 1×1, 2×2 and above 2×2 construction like 3×3, 4×4, 5×5 fancy rib but 6×6 has special name like Derby rib.

Properties/Identification:

1. Appearance: Both sides are same in appearance. Semicircle loops can be observed in between V shape loops.

Stitch diagram of 1Î1 Rib:

T/B	( )	V	( )	V
T/F	V	( )	V	( )

Stitch diagram of 6Î6 Derby Rib:

T/B

( )

( )

( )

( )

( )

( )

V

V

V

V

V

V

( )

( )

( )

( )

( )

( )

T/F

V

V

V

V

V

V

( )

( )

( )

( )

( )

( )

V

V

V

V

V

V

Loop diagram of 1Î1 Rib:

2. Edge curling: This fabric does not curl at the edges. It is a balance fabric because of having wales in both directions. The reason is both T/F and T/B bed are active, so tension is uniform on both sides.

3. Dimensional stability: Dimensional stability is good.

4. Unraveled: We can unravel the structure from the end section only (because it forms from double bed).

5. Elasticity: Elasticity can be observed well in widthwise direction.

• Laddering: Laddering can be repaired in flat bed knitting but not in circular knitting.

• Density: Density is heavier than single jersey because loops catch at both sides.

End Uses:

• Bottoms, collar, cuff, hem and for also for full dress.
• Especially lightweight for undergarments because elasticity is good.

Double Jersey/ Interlock:

If the plain stitches are one behind the other the fabric/ structure is known double jersey.

T/F

T/B

Properties/Identification:

1.          Appearance: Both sides are same in appearance. Both technical front and technical back has V shape stitch/ jersey stitch.

Stitch diagram of Double Jersey:  Loop diagram of Double Jersey:

T/B	V	V	V	V
T/F	V	V	V	V

2.        Edge curling: This fabric also does not curl at the edges. Reason is that it is more balanced fabric because all needles are active on both sides (T/F and T/B bed). So tension is uniform on both sides.

3.        Dimensional stability: Dimensional stability is very good.

4.        Unraveled: We can unrope the structure from the end section only (because it forms from double bed).

5.        Elasticity: In comparison to other knit fabric; (especially rib) elasticity is poor.

• Laddering: Laddering can not be repaired in both flat bed knitting and circular knitting. Because both side needles are active at opposite direction.

• Density: In comparison to other knit fabric; density is heavier.

End Uses:

• Normally for heavy knitwear Vast because it is fitted.
• Light knitted is preferred for sportswear (sports T-shirt) because it absorbs sweat well and dimensional stability is good.
• For ladies skirt. And also for tube fabric to make pocket.

Differences between Single jersey and Rib knit:

Single Jersey	Rib Knit
T/F has V shape stitch and T/B has semi circle stitch.	Semicircle loops can be observed in between V shape loops at both sides.
Edge curling occurs.	Edge curling does not occur.
Dimensional stability is comparatively poor.	Dimensional stability is good.
Can be unroped the yarn from the both end.	Can be unroped the yarn from only the end section.
Almost equal elasticity both in lengthwise and widthwise direction.	Elasticity can be observed well in widthwise direction.
Manufacturing by using only T/F needle bed.	Manufacturing by using both T/F and T/B needle bed.
Density is lighter than Rib knit.	Density is heavier than single jersey
Made by one set of needle; i.e. cylinder needle. (In case of circular knitting)	Made by two set of needle; i.e. dial needle and cylinder needle. (In case of circular knitting)

Similarities between Single jersey and Rib knit:

1. Both is mendable (Laddering can be repaired)

Differences between Rib and Double jersey knit:

Rib	Double Jersey
Has semicircle loops in between V shape stitches at both sides.	Do not have semicircle loops; only V shape stitches at both sides.
Elasticity is good.	Elasticity is poor.
Density is lighter than double jersey.	Density is heavier than Rib.
Dimensional stability is good.	Dimensional stability is better than rib.
It is mendable (Laddering can be repaired)	It is not mendable (Laddering can’t be repaired)
All needles are not active of both beds.	All needles are active of both beds.

Similarities between Rib and Double jersey knit:

1. Both side same in appearance.
2. Can be unraveled the yarn from only the end section.
3. Edge curling does not occur.
4. Both are double bedded structure. Manufacturing by using both T/F and T/B needle bed.
5. Made by two set of needle; i.e. dial needle and cylinder needle.

            Differences between Single jersey and Double jersey knit:

Single Jersey	Double Jersey
T/F has V shape stitch and T/B has semi circle stitch.	Both T/F and T/B has V shape stitch.
Edge curling occurs.	Edge curling does not occur.
Dimensional stability is poor.	Dimensional stability is very good.
Can be unroped the yarn from the both end.	Can be unroped the yarn from the end section only.
Elasticity is better than double jersey.	Elasticity is poor.
It is comparatively soft.	It is comparatively hard.
It is mendable (Laddering can be repaired)	It is not mendable (Laddering can’t be repaired)
Manufacturing by using only T/F needle bed.	Manufacturing by using both T/F and T/B needle bed.
Density is lighter than double jersey.	Density is heavier than single jersey.
Made by one set of needle; i.e. cylinder needle. (In case of circular knitting)	Made by two set of needle; i.e. dial needle and cylinder needle. (In case of circular knitting)

To be continue.......................