About The Fabric (Woven)

Fabric weave is the pattern of weave or structure given to the fabric. It is an ancient textile art and craft, which places two, threads or yarn onto a warp and weft of a loom to produce a cloth. The woven cloth can be plain, in single color or in a simple pattern, or it may be woven in decorative or artistic designs.

Fabrics are woven on jacquard looms or dobby looms. The simple weave is usually done on a dobby looms where as the complicated patterns are done on the jacquard looms. The weave on the jacquard looms is controlled by a computer. Jacquard looms are more popular and more economical. It weaves fast and in bulk.

Common Numbering Systems of Natural and Man-made fiber.

Tex System

Lower the Tex, finer the thread
Higher the Tex, thicker the thread
Higher the Ticket, finer the thread
Lower the Ticket, thicker the thread


Is symbolized by (Tex) and is a direct count of thread weight per unit length. It is based on the weight in grams of a thread 1,000 meters (1 kilometer) long. 1,000 meters of Tex 10 (very fine) thread weighs 10 grams, while 1,000 meters of Tex 100 (very coarse) weighs 100 grams. The Tex system measures the entire thread, no matter how many strands or plies it has.

Ticket number

Is a system to give easy approximations of the specific size of finished thread and is different for different thread types even if the Tex no is same. To convert Tex into ticket (1000/Tex No) x 3.


Cotton Count system

If you had a single strand of yarn 840 yards long weighing one pound, its count (or size) would be shown as 1/1. This simply means it had a count of one (the first number) and that it was a single strand or yard (the second number). If you then twisted two or those single strands together, the size would then be ½: One count yarn (the first number), in a two ply construction (the second number).

is used for threads made from natural products and is symbolized by Ne. It is based on the number of 840 yard hanks in one pound of thread made from natural fibers and yarns. The size is measure of an individual yarn or strand. Most threads are made from multiple strands or plies. In the cotton count system, 50/2 designates a two-ply thread made from two size 50 yarns. That has the same fibre contents as one size 25 yarn. 8,400 yards of size 10 (coarse) or 84,000 yards or size 100 (extremely fine) is same for one pound of cotton yard in this system. Cotton Count System (Ne) has been the accepted standard in sizing spun threads.



The Hong Kong ticket System

Is the same as the cotton count system, just written without the slash. So a cotton count 50/2 thread is a Hong Kong ticket 502 thread.


Denier System

Is used for continuous filament synthetic threads and is symbolized by d and is based on the weight in grams of a thread 9 kilometres long. Denier measurements are nine times larger than Tex for the same yarn. However denier is sometimes applied to individual strands of a multi-ply thread, while Tex is always applied to the entire thread. Denier sizes are usually written as 1000d, 200d, and so on.
Metric Count System

Is used for synthetic threads and is symbolized by Nm and is based on the number of 1 kilometre hanks in one kilogram of synthetic thread. So size 100 is a fine thread and size 10 is extremely coarse.


Collected and Edited by Enamul Haque Bipul

Peach (carbonic) finished fabric dyeing & finishing method.

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Suede or Peach (carbonic) finished fabric dyeing & finishing method.

Dear All,

The dyeing process of Sueded or Peach finished fabric same as like others fabric, only in the fabric finishing we used some extra process. Please find below the dyeing process

Fabrication: 100% cotton, Single Jersey Peach finished (carbonic), 160 GSM.
 

A) Dyeing

1^st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 

2^nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric.

3^rd Step: Soda / Salt wash.

4^th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric.

5^th Step: Acid washes (after released color mixing water) 

6^th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 

7^th Step: Softener.

B) Finishing

For tube form

8^th Step: Squeezer

9^th Step: Dryer.

10^th Step: Suedeing or Peach (in the face side of fabric) with suede machine.  

11^th Step: Compacting

For open width fabric

8^th Step: Slitting

9^th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust)

10^th Step: Suedeing or Peach (in the face side of fabric) with suede machine.

10^th Step: Stentering

10^th Step: Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control)

Regarding the peach finished fabric please be careful regarding the neck rib & body color. Some time we found that rib & body color are not matching. Also we found hole in the fabric.

   

Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.

Regards

Bipul

Relation Between Yarn count, Knitting, Dyeing & Gsm.

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Knitting Rules

For choosing correct yarn count and for producing accurate require fabric it is very important for us to learn the knitting rules & conditions. From my next several post we will learn the Relation between Yarn count, Knitting, Dyeing & Gsm.

At first please note:

1 CM   = 10 MM,

1 INCH = 2.54 CM 

1 INCH = 25.4 MM  

Regards

Bipul

Before place Fabric purchase order.

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Dear All,

Please find below a list of points which should be considered before placing a fabric purchase order. You must check & clearly describe the below mentioned points in your booking sheet and also take confirmation from the fabric supplier. These points will be differ a bit for A) Woven Fabric & B) Knit Fabric  

A) WOVEN FABRICS

1. Composition (fabric content)

2. Fabric construction.

3. Warp yarn counts, weft yarn count.

4. Kinds of yarn (O.E/Ring spun/combed/semi-combed/carded

5. Width of fabric

6. Woven by shuttle loom or shuttle less loom.

7. If dyed then dye type.

8. Color fastness to (wet/light/crocking/iron etc.)

9. Piece length with no seam (For example 75% of the fabric longer than 80% yards per piece and maximum 25% between 30 & yards.)

10. Acceptable Quality level (AQL)

11. Loom state desized /softened

12. Finishing / Pre washed / Brushed/Skewed/Pre-Shrink

13. Specially finished ( water-repellent / water-proof / resin finish permanent press procured, permanent press post cured, crinkled, peached on front side)

14. Fabric strength (warp & weft way)

15. Packing for example:

a) Rolled on tube and then each roll in an un tear able Polly bag

b) Folded at one yard length and each piece in an un tear able Polly bag and then so many pieces in a 3-ply carton.

16. Marking and labeling.

To assure accurate length of fabric in each roll, we may want the suppliers to stamp both ends of fabric and yardage written on paper label.


KNITTED FABRICS

During placing a purchase order of knitted fabric we should specify the followings as mentioned below:

1. Type of Knit

2. Weight per square meter (grammage) GSM.

3. Tubular or Open width

4. Cut selvedges starched to protect curl up.

5. Shrinkage.

6. Dia etc.

The specification of dyes & color fastness standard are also very important. We must be confirmed with the buyer before placing an order to fabric supplier.



We should specify the entire requirement as clearly as possible.

If we don’t specify, we may get

1. Direct dye instead of reactive dye or vat dye.

2. 8% instead of residual shrinkage below 5%

3. Some pcs less than 20 yds instead of minimum piece length 30% yds.

4. Any standard instead of color fastness standard

5. Carded yarn instead combed yarn.

Regards

Bipul