Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.
After receiving the yarn
we knit the yarn in knitting machine for producing knit fabric. At this stage
the fabric remains uncolored formed. We called this as Grey Fabric. Then we dye
the grey fabric in dyeing winch (machine) as per our required color.
In this regards the
please note that, GSM of the followings Grey fabric are not remain same as our
require finished fabric GSM. Normally the GSM of grey fabric remains lower than
the finished fabric. After knitting when we dye and washed the fabric then the
GSM increase and come to near as our requirement. This increasement of GSM depends
on fabric constructions & some knitting variables. Let's see an example
Say,
Fabric Construction: Single
Jersey
Yarn Count : 30/s
Require GSM(finished): 145
GSM
Grey GSM : will be what?
As per practical experience
we know for Single Jersey fabric, if
we knit the fabric with 30/s yarn then the grey GSM will increase 15% to 20% after dyeing and finishing.
So, if we need 145 GSM S/J
fabric with 30/s
Then we should keep the
Grey GSM = 145 – (15 to 20%),
supposed it the percentage will be 18 then
Grey GSM = 145 – 18%
Grey GSM = 119 GSM
So, now we know that, if we
need 145 gsm single jersey fabric with 30/s yarn, then we should keep the GSM of
grey fabric as 119.
Please find below the GSM
different between Grey VS Finished for some more types of fabric.
For single jersey fabric:
If the yarn count is 30/s
then the grey gsm will be 20% to 15% less from the finished Gsm
If the yarn count is 26/s
then the grey gsm will be 22% to 20% less from the finished Gsm
If the yarn count is 24/s
then the grey gsm will be 24% to 23% less from the finished Gsm
If the yarn count is 20/s
then the grey gsm will be 24% to 21% less from the finished Gsm
Regards
Bipul
