Dye Sublimation Printing

Dear All,

Hope everybody is well and doing great! At present I’m passing very busy time with my present JOB, that’s why since last few months I have been unable to publish any new topics.  

However, at-last today I’ve just sat to write a new article for all of you. My today’s topic is based on a Modern print technology. The name of this print technology is Dye Sublimation  Print. 

Dye Sublimation  Printing

Introduction: It is a totally new technology for printing sector. It’s been the most modern technology in the printing. It’s really a new experience for printing world. Many people also called this print as thermal Dye Sublimation print. 

Technical Details of Dye Sublimation  print: 

Dye Sublimation  print are not works like a normal screen print or rotary print. In the normal printing process we put a layer of color on the fabric or on the other printing surface. But the technology of Sublimation prints totally different than normal print. The sublimation process dyes the fibers of a garment, instead of putting a layer of ink on top of the fabric or the specific surface. This different printing process has given the unique advantage to the Dye Sublimation   print. Dye Sublimation  print, are made from special sublimation dyes which penetrate synthetic materials (such as Polyester) when we apply pressure and heat. During the transfer process, the dye heats up and turn into a gas that bond with the synthetic portion of the fabric. As in this printing process the dye makes a bond with the synthetic fiber so it must be used with fabrics that have a high polyester content, at least half of the total composition. That’s mean more synthetic in the fabric, the better print quality. Dye Sublimation   print works based on CMYK technology. No print screen is needed for this print. We make the design in the computer then directly transfer the design into the printing machine.  

Process of Dye Sublimation  print: 

Not only technical printing process but also physical processes is different than normal screen print. There are total two main steps. First step: Do the print on paper 2^nd step: Transfer the print from paper into fabric. 

In normal screen print we put the fabric cut panel on the table then put the ink/color layer on it. But in the Dye Sublimation   printing process at first we do the print on a special typed paper by using the printing machine. Then we transfer the print from paper onto fabric by using heat and pressure. The printing machine is like as a big bubble jet printer. The printer head move from each side to another during printing the paper same as the real printer. This printing machine has total 04 (four) different basic colors on it to make the print. After complete the print on paper we transfer the print on the fabric by using a heat press machine.  

Advantage of Dye Sublimation  print: 

As this printing technology the dyes make a bond with the fiber so the image cannot crack, peel, or wear off. It looks like a real one without any hand feel. This print is longer lasting than any other prints. The image quality looks like new after several washings. Also remain like a new one after many days uses. We can do this print within very short time notice because this printing technology does not need any Film, Screen, Scraper etc. There is no color making and mixing process, just separate the color in a computer and send the command to the printer. The printer will do all other things. As we don't need to lay the fabric on a print table so it consumes very small places. We can easily set up a printing factory in a small, long floor is not needed, this will help us to reduce the printing cost.

Disadvantage of Dye Sublimation print:   

This printing technology has some disadvantage also. The main disadvantage is fabric composition related.You can't do this print on 100% cotton fabric. If you do this print on 100% cotton fabric then print may washed out and quality will be not good as you expecting. The minimum requirement is 60/04 CVC fabric and the best is 100% Polyester. If you do this print on 100% polyester then the quality and effect will be great. And also you will be get 100% wash guaranty. The another disadvantage is - this print is not possible on Black color fabric. If you really want to do this print on Black color fabric then - You need to print white color full body fabric by Black color. Then on the following Black color print you may print another color as per your requirement. But in that case price will be much more higher than normal Sublimation print. Also the print cost is much higher than screen print which is another disadvantage of this print. 

Costing details of Dye Sublimation print: 

The printing cost of dye sublimation print is much more higher than normal screen and rotary print. Which is another big disadvantage of this print. A medium size chest print rate is $11.00/dozen on a white or light color body, where we can do the same print by screen printing only @ $3.00/ Dozen. In this regards please remember one thing that, print quality and stability of this sublimation print are also 10 time better than normal screen print. 

If you want to make the print on Black color or any other extra dark color fabric then you need to pay another 6x price (Dollar). So, if you want to do the same print in black color fabric which normal print price is $11.00/dozen then the price will be $11.X6 = $66/dozen. Please wait I'm explaining you that, why the price is so much higher. Every technology has some limitation. Sublimation print also has some limitation and the main limitation of this print is " The print didn't show on the black color fabric". That's mean the print can possible on black color fabric but it will be not visible on it. So, at first we need to print white color fabric with black color. Then we can print our require color on this printed black color. So, for black color we will print the whole front part + back part and sleeve with black color and then we will print our require print.        

 

Conclusion: Actually whether you will do this print or not it will be depends on you quality requirement. Also we need to consider the prices. Normally this Dye sublimation print is used in sports wear.  

By Enamul Haque Bipul

Puff Print

Puff print is an another common print in the fashion Industry. Sometimes we call it emboss print also. It is almost similar  to the rubber print We can make this print in any color. Mainly buyer asked this print on knitted T-shirt. The printing process is same as other screen print.

Printing process
a. Like as other print we make the print screen at first.
b. We make rubber color as normal
c. Mix an EMBOSS OR FOAMING PAST with the followings color.
d. Then print on the garments with following color mixer like as a normal rubber print.
e. Then we dry the print area by using heat. This is the turning point of this print. Because after getting the heat the print becomes puffed. Normally we dry the print area  with dryer for small print. If the print area is larger then we heat press the print with curing machine. I advise all to use heat press machine instead of hand dryer, it will make the puffed evenly. Before heat press please adjust the temperature and pressure of curing machine to get the correct output. Less heat will give you a less puffed print.  

Cost of the print 
Though I've not the exact idea regarding the price of this print so please contact with print factory with your print artwork. It may be One and half times more costly than rubber print.

Caution
During a heat press please be careful regarding the color of body fabric because the excessive heat can affect on the color of body fabric.

Thanks and best regards
Bipul

Flock Print

Details of Flock Print

Dear All, 

After introducing the Pigment print and Burnout print today I will introduce you with an another quality print. We already know the print is very important for this apparel sector. Also we are already aware that, how a prints makes the garments more attractive and saleable. Today I will tell you about Flock print. 

Flock print is also a very attractive print. The looks and feeling of flock prints are very nice. Flock prints are not same as other color/dye print. The printing technique of flock prints is totally different from as usual screen, auto machine and rotary prints. 

The printers didn’t use any dyes and chemical during the Flock print. They use normal printing Screen, Gum and powder of fiber. 

Types of Flock print 

By materials 

a. Cotton flock prints 

b. Polyester flock print. This polyester flock print also known as Nylon flock print. 

By technic

a. Single color flock print

b. Multi color flock print

Cotton Flock Print

Cotton flock print is a most common type of flock prints. We know the main materials of flock print is a powder of fiber. That means the flock is a very very small part of the fiber. When we produced the fiber for flock print from cotton source, we called it cotton fiber. And when we use this cotton fiber for flock print we called the flock print as cotton flock. 

Advantage of cotton flock print

1. It is not so harmful for human body as polyester flock.

2. The fiber didn’t stay on the fabric surface after the print. 

Disadvantage of cotton flock print

1. This type of flock print is not glossy as polyester flock print.

2. Hand feel is not so good and soft as Polyester flock print.

3. It is not available in the market as Polyester flock.

Polyester flock prints

When we produce the flock powder from polyester or nylon source then we called it Polyester flock. 

Advantage of polyester flock print

1. The polyester flock print is very shiny and attractive.

2. Hand feel is very good and soft like as Vellore (velvet)

3. Polyester flock is very common in the market. 

Disadvantage of Polyester flock print

1. Polyester flock can be a cause of allergy in the human body.

2. Polyester flock remains on the fabric surface.



Single color flock print

It’s a common flock print. Most of the buyers asked for single color flock print. Single color flock print quality always remains very good. 

Multi color flock print 

It’s a very difficult process. It makes the flock quality very poor. Actually a multi color flock print becomes a felt type print. Please always try to discourage the buyer for this print. It makes the hand feel of flock print very poorly. 

Required materials and tools for Flock prints 

1. Printing Table 

2. Screen with require design 

3. High quality Gum 

4. Powder of fiber 

5. An electric plate with appropriate power supply. 

6. Net Like flock filter 

7. Belt curing machine or Heat presses curing machine. 



Flock printing process (Step by step) 

1. Preparing the print screen and arrange the flock powder: After getting the artwork or design from a buyer we prepare the screen for printing. Also we collect the flock powder as per buyer color requirement. Also we have purchased the flock based on buyer quality requirement. It can be Cotton flock or Polyester flock. 

2. Making the Gum: After arranging the flock powder we make or purchase the Gum. This Gum must be high quality. In previous we prepare the gum ourself with the mixer of some chemical, which was risky. Because, if you fail to prepare correct quality of Gum then the flock will be coming off. At present most of the print factory buys the Gum from chemical house. In this regards please note that, this Gum has a limited expiry period. Which is +/- 6 hrs. After preparing the Gum we can maximum use this Gum for next 6 hrs. If you the printers use it after 6 hours then flock print can be washed out or come off from the fabric. 

3. Lay the fabric and paste the Gum: Now we lay the fabric on the table and paste the Gum on it by using the the print screen. This time screen man paste the Gum on fabric instead of color. Gum take the place on the fabric as in design. 

4. The Flock print: After pasting the Gum on fabric as per design by using the screen we put the fabric on an electric plate. Actually this technique is for polyester flock print. After putting the fabric on the plate we place the flock powder on it evenly by use of a net like tools. In this point the electric plate attracts the polyester fiber by electric power. In this process Gum attached the flock with fabric. 

5. Finishing process of Flock print: After placing the flock on fabric we dry fabric. We dry the flock printed fabric by a belt curing machine at a specific temperature. 

6. Then we check the quality and deliver the goods for sewing. 

Cost details of Flock print

1. Normally the cost of Flock print is two or three times higher then rubber print.

2. For a full front single color flock print the printer will charge you $6.00/doz. Its may vary based on the size of the print.

3. We buy the flock powder from local market in kg. The normal white and black color flock powder price is $10 - $12/kg.

4. Except the white and black color flock the other colors flock powder price is little bit higher. The average price of color flock powder is $14 to $18/kg.



Warnings (Special note) Flock print

1. Always wash the printed sample or strike off for checking that the flock is not coming off.

2. Always avoid order with multi color flock print.

3. Use Gum tape for removing the dust from garments.

4. Take confirmation from your buyer that he has not problem with Polyester flock print.

5. Wear mask during put the flock powder on Fabric.

6. The production is slower than others print. So, take enough days from buyer for shipment.

7. Make the flock printing in a room like the place because flock powder can effects on the others prints.



If you have any doubt regarding above flock print then please feel free to contact with me.



Thanks and best regards
Bipul

BURN OUT PRINT

DETAILS OF BURNOUT PRINT

Nowadays Print is a very very important thing for this textile sector. Print makes a clothes attractive. We can’t imagine a dress or clothes without print. Printing sector is also expanding and changing every day with the fashion trend. We are discovering new technic and qualities of print day by day. Print technology is growing up with the Clothes industry. 99% fashion clothes are now must have any print on it.  

There are many kinds of print we can do on the clothes or fabric. Some print very basic and normal, these prints are very cheap also. But some print is very critical and rare. These kinds of print are more costly than basic normal print. But print makes a dress or clothes attractive and saleable.

Today I will introduce you with a rare, critical and costly print. The name of this print is Burnout print. This is a rare quality print. Burnout print is also very expensive too. It's a very nice quality print.

In the image of the print you will clearly see the Polyester and cotton part.  I'm uploading several pictures of burn out print.

The printing factory makes this print with the flat bed printing machine. The printing way of this print is same as a normal flat bed print, just printers use acid type chemical instead of color.

We can do this print only some selected fabric. This print is not possible on 100% cotton fabric. The best composition for this burn out print is 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric. This print is also possible on 60% cotton and 40% polyester.

The main technique of burnout print is destroys the cotton portion of the fabric with Acid / Chemical. When the chemical flow over the fabric and contact with cotton portion, then it burn out the cotton by chemical reaction. Actually cotton is the victim here.

The Burn out chemical (Acid) and working details as mentioned below

1. PC or CVC fabric.
2. Paste + Any acid liverating salt (like Nacl, Na2 so4)
3. Steaming
4. Washing (Roubasting wash)
5. Burnout print complete

Only print technicians will understand the above 5 points.

Please find below the step by step printing process of burn out print.

1st Step: Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork.

2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition a) 60% polyester 40% cotton OR b) 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.

3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory.

4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid but polyester portion will be remain same.

5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color.

Hope, above description of burn out print is clear to all. 

Now please find below some important points regarding the Burnout print-


1. Burnout print is not possible on 100% cotton fabric. Clothes should be PC or CVC

2. 60% polyester 40% cotton is the best composition for Burnout print.

3. Process loss is very high. More than 35%

4. Single jersey construction is the best construction for Burnout print.

5. If you need the finished fabric with 120 to 130 GSM then you should knit the fabric with 160 to 170 GSM.

6. Burnout print is not only expensive but also lucrative with nice feelings.

When you will calculate the cost of a burnout printed dress or clothes, please follow the below details-

1. Please add the burnout print price with fabric price.

2. As the sampling cost is very high so also consider it during the pricing.

3. Add process loss 35%

4. Normally the cost of burnout print is $4.5 to $5.0/kg

Please find below the costing details of single jersey Burnout fabric. 
( This is an example only, price may changed any time)


1. Yarn per Kg = $ 3.60

2. Fabric Knitting = $ 0.15

3. Scouring = $ 0.80

4. Burn Print = $ 5.00

5. Wash = $ 0.80

6. Dyeing = $ 1.50
---------------------------------
Total = $ 11.85/Kg

Add process loss = 35%

The finish Burn out Fabric cost will be = $ 16.00/Kg


By Enamul Haque Bipul