Monday, March 26, 2012

Stitches & Seams Analysis (Part 01)

Presented by : Mr. Mukesh Halari. 

 Apparel Manufacturing

By S. H. Shin, Ph.D.

Stitches & Seams Analysis


1. Define stitch classifications, characteristics, and formation.

2. Identify seam classification, types, and uses.

3. Relate the properties of stitches and seams to production costs, performance, and quality.

4. Examine functions, characteristics, and selection of sewing threads and needles.

5. Examine the relationship between needles, thread, and fabric.

6. Analysis seam appearance and performance.

Stitches and Seams

Standards that defined stitches and seams:

1. The United States Federal Stitch and Seam Specification (Federal Standard 751a) in 1965.

2. ASTM D 6193, Standard Related to Stitches and Seams


1. A Stitch: is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.

2. A Seam: is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.

3. A Stitching: consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for decorative purpose or finishing an edge.


Stitch classification is based on:
1. Structure of the stitch

2. Method of interlacing stitch properties.

Stitch properties:

1. Relate to aesthetics and performance

o Stitch size

§ Stitch length, width, and depth.

o Thread tension

o Stitch consistency.

Stitch properties: Stitch size

Stitch Length:

Stitches per inch (spi)

1. High spi

o Short stitches: High quality

o Potential problems (seam

o Pucker or weaken fabric).

o Higher spi, the more time and thread, high cost.

2. Low spi

o Long stitches: Lower quality

o Problems: Less durable,

o Snagging, abrasion, grin through

o Fast, less thread, less cost.


Men’s shirts 22 spi vs. 8 spi

Stitch properties: Stitch size

Stitch Width:

o Distance between the outermost lines of stitches.

o Refers to the horizontal span covered in the formation of one stitch.

o Referred to as gauge, (inch)

§ Example: overedge, zigzag, and cover stitches (1/4 inch)

o Width dimensions require multiple needles or lateral movement of thread carriers:

§ Example: needle bars, lopper’s, or spreaders.

Stitch properties: Stitch size


             Distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch
             􀂄 Example: Blind stitches (Curved needle with lateral movement)

To be continue..............................

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