Presented by : Mr. Mukesh Halari.
Stitches & Seams Analysis
Objectives:
1. Define stitch classifications, characteristics, and formation.
2. Identify seam classification, types, and uses.
3. Relate the properties of stitches and seams to production costs, performance, and quality.
4. Examine functions, characteristics, and selection of sewing threads and needles.
5. Examine the relationship between needles, thread, and fabric.
6. Analysis seam appearance and performance.
Stitches and Seams
Standards that defined stitches and seams:
1. The United States Federal Stitch and Seam Specification (Federal Standard 751a) in 1965.
2. ASTM D 6193, Standard Related to Stitches and Seams
Definitions
1. A Stitch: is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.
2. A Seam: is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.
3. A Stitching: consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for decorative purpose or finishing an edge.
Stitches
Stitch classification is based on:
1. Structure of the stitch
2. Method of interlacing stitch properties.
Stitch properties:
1. Relate to aesthetics and performance
o Stitch size
§ Stitch length, width, and depth.
o Thread tension
o Stitch consistency.
Stitch properties: Stitch size
Stitch Length:
Stitches per inch (spi)
1. High spi
o Short stitches: High quality
o Potential problems (seam
o Pucker or weaken fabric).
o Higher spi, the more time and thread, high cost.
2. Low spi
o Long stitches: Lower quality
o Problems: Less durable,
o Snagging, abrasion, grin through
o Fast, less thread, less cost.
Example:
Men’s shirts 22 spi vs. 8 spi
Stitch properties: Stitch size
Stitch Width:
o Distance between the outermost lines of stitches.
o Refers to the horizontal span covered in the formation of one stitch.
o Referred to as gauge, (inch)
§ Example: overedge, zigzag, and cover stitches (1/4 inch)
o Width dimensions require multiple needles or lateral movement of thread carriers:
§ Example: needle bars, lopper’s, or spreaders.
Stitch properties: Stitch size
Depth:
Distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch
Example: Blind stitches (Curved needle with lateral movement)
To be continue..............................
Apparel
Manufacturing
By S. H. Shin, Ph.D.
Stitches & Seams Analysis
Objectives:
1. Define stitch classifications, characteristics, and formation.
2. Identify seam classification, types, and uses.
3. Relate the properties of stitches and seams to production costs, performance, and quality.
4. Examine functions, characteristics, and selection of sewing threads and needles.
5. Examine the relationship between needles, thread, and fabric.
6. Analysis seam appearance and performance.
Stitches and Seams
Standards that defined stitches and seams:
1. The United States Federal Stitch and Seam Specification (Federal Standard 751a) in 1965.
2. ASTM D 6193, Standard Related to Stitches and Seams
Definitions
1. A Stitch: is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.
2. A Seam: is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.
3. A Stitching: consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for decorative purpose or finishing an edge.
Stitches
Stitch classification is based on:
1. Structure of the stitch
2. Method of interlacing stitch properties.
Stitch properties:
1. Relate to aesthetics and performance
o Stitch size
§ Stitch length, width, and depth.
o Thread tension
o Stitch consistency.
Stitch properties: Stitch size Stitch Length:
Stitches per inch (spi)
1. High spi
o Short stitches: High quality
o Potential problems (seam
o Pucker or weaken fabric).
o Higher spi, the more time and thread, high cost.
2. Low spi
o Long stitches: Lower quality
o Problems: Less durable,
o Snagging, abrasion, grin through
o Fast, less thread, less cost.
Example:
Men’s shirts 22 spi vs. 8 spi
Stitch properties: Stitch size
Stitch Width:
o Distance between the outermost lines of stitches.
o Refers to the horizontal span covered in the formation of one stitch.
o Referred to as gauge, (inch)
§ Example: overedge, zigzag, and cover stitches (1/4 inch)
o Width dimensions require multiple needles or lateral movement of thread carriers:
§ Example: needle bars, lopper’s, or spreaders.
Stitch properties: Stitch size
Depth:
Distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch
Example: Blind stitches (Curved needle with lateral movement)
To be continue..............................
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