Monday, May 14, 2012

PREPARATORY PROCESSES (Cutting Part 1)


Learn Apparel Merchandising Learn Fashion Designing. 
After receiving the finished fabric from the dyeing and finishing section, there are some processes to prepare the fabric for bulk production. All these processes combined can be called preparatory processes.

The preparatory processes are

 Fabric inspection.
 Fabric Relaxation.
 Different tests i.e. GSM test, Shrinkage test, Twisting, Fastness test, Fabric dia, Shade, Consumption etc. for quality assurance.
 Test Cutting.
 Approval.

Fabric Inspection
When the fabrics are received from the dyeing and finishing section, it needs to be checked, because, faulty fabrics can be supplied from dyeing and finishing. But the cutting section has to check it. Otherwise the end products will be faulty.
For this, the fabric is being inspected by the quality inspector of the cutting section. They check the fabric fully and find out the faults. Then mark it so that, these faulty portion of the fabric can be rejected during spreading and cutting. Then the fabric is being stored for relaxation.

Fabric Relaxation
When the fabric comes from the dyeing and finishing, the fabric remains a slightly hot. In dryer, stenter and compactor heat is applied on fabric. So moisture is removed from the fabric and it is not in actual condition. But if we keep the fabric in normal temperature and pressure for a certain time, the fabric absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and regains its original nature. This process is called fabric relaxation.
Another cause of fabric relaxation is to maintain the dimensional stability of produced garments. When the fabric is being processed in different finishing machines, it goes under certain heat and pressure to give it proper shape. But when the heat and pressure is being withdrawn, the shape may change. So, if the dimension is became stabilized before cutting, no chance of strain in garments. So relaxation is very necessary before cutting.

Relaxation Period
Fabric relaxation is performed for a certain period. This time is varied from fabric to fabric. But the minimum time of relaxation is twelve (12) hours. This time also may vary according to the buyer’s recommendation.
After fabric relaxation, different tests are performed for maintaining the proper quality.

Different Tests
Different tests are being performed here to ensure the buyer recommended quality. Among the tests, the important test matters are GSM, dia, shed, shrinkage, twisting, fastness etc. These tests are done to be sure about that the fabric quality is fare enough for maintaining garments quality.

Test Cutting & Approval
After testing the fabric, if it is seemed that, the fabric quality is ok, and then test cutting is done. Here a little amount of fabric is cut and sewed in sewing section. Then the garments are compared with the approved sample. Sewing allowance and other measurements are also observed.
If everything is ok, then the approval is given and the fabric is ready for bulk production.

To be continue.............

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