Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Some Important Issue Regarding Zipper

Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.
Some Important Issue Regarding Zipper

When we will use zipper in a body, we must be careful regarding some points. Because any wrong selection in this process can be reject your garments. We must be considering each & every points before place a work order of zipper. Also we must be test everything before start joining with the body.

Always we should keep a thing in our mind that, the characters of zipper is not similar with our garments. So we always should try for better adjustment.

The main material of zipper is teeth. The Zipper teeth are usually made of brass, aluminum, plastic or nylon and shrinkage of these items is very low. These items do not shrink when washed.

Therefore, the zipper tapes must be made of materials which do not shrink when washed otherwise the shrinkage will make the zipper fail to function. In most cases, the zipper tapes are made of nylon or polyester which do not shrink and are colorfast. 

When we order zippers we should specify that, the zippers (teeth and tape) are color fast, and order them in colors to match the garment color after wash.

The colors of pigment dye fabric, garment dye fabric, garments or denim garments may change substantially during the washing process. If your zipper colors match them before wash, you will end up having the zippers much darker than garments colors after wash.

If it is a long zipper like the front zipper of a Jacket, you have to make sure the shell fabric you use is of maximum 3% shrinkage otherwise when the garments shrinks in washing and the zipper does not shrink, the zipper will become wavy making it difficult for the zipper slider to go up down. Besides, a wavy zipper will make the garments look bad.

Also before place a order you should have clear idea that, you are ordering left handed or right handed zipper. Because, very often buyer asked for different handed zipper for male & female.

I personally advise all the merchandiser that, you must fix the zipper length after discussion with your production people otherwise you may get in trouble.

Regards
Bipul

3 comments:

  1. Types

    a) METAL ZIPPERS: In which the Teeth/ elements are made from alloy of Aluminium, Copper or Nickel. On specification of the user, elements from the alloy of copper or nickel could be processed to acquire an antique finish.
    b) POLYSTER ZIPPER: Could be further classified as a zipper with coiled element of Filament (CFC), a zipper with Lateral Coiled Element (LFC) or CH (without chain) zippers. CH zippers are used for low applications areas like cushion covers.
    c) INVISIBLE ZIPPER: The Teeth of the zipper are virtually invisible. Can be further classified as made with Nylon tape or with woven tape
    d) DELRIN/MOULDED ZIPPER: A vision of zipper also known as a Delrin Zipper is one in which the elements are injection moulded with Polyacetal material (Industrial Engineering Plastics).

    Other Key Words Related to Zippers

    a)BEAD: An enlarged section on the inner edge of each tape to which interlocable elements are affixed.
    b) BOTTOM STOP: A part affixed to both stringers immediately below, or over the chain, holding the two stringers together at the bottom and preventing the slider from leaving the chain.
    c) CHAIN: The assemblage formed by interlocking several elements of two stringers.
    d) CORD: A strand of multiple yarns for use in forming a bead.
    e) PULL: A part connected to a zipper slider by which the slider is operated.
    f) RELEASING STOP: A device attached at or near the top of stringer on the separable pin side which limits the travel of the slider at the open end if the chain under normal closing operation.
    g) STRINGER: The tape, bead and element assembly that constitutes one side of a chain.
    h) TAPE: A strip of material along one edge of which the bead elements are attached.
    i) TOP STOP: A part affixed between immediately above the interlocking elements on either or both stringers, to prevent the slider from leaving the chain.

    Variaties of Zippers :

    1. CLOSED END: A non-separable zipper.
    2. OPENED END: A sepearable zipper.
    3. 2 WAY: Also known as Reversible. These zippers can be opened from the top and bottom and can be seperated.
    For Open end Closed end varieties there can be left opening as well as right opening. Right opening varieties are usually preferred until specifically ordered for left opening variety.

    How to measure a zipper :

    STEP 1: Zip up the zipper.
    STEP 2: Measure from the edge of the bottom stop to the top end of the top stop.

    Tolerances while measuring a zipper have to be taken into consideration. Following is the maximum tolerance permitted by Garments Trim.

    ZIPPER SPEC REQD TOLERANCE FACTOR

    Below 30 cms +/- 5mm
    +30 cms- 60 cms +/- 10mm
    +60 cms- 100 cms +/- 15mm
    +100 cms 3% of required measurement

    ReplyDelete
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