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Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Woven Bottom: Details Formula of Consumption (part 2)

Publishing from the comments (Part 2)

tamimApr 10, 2012 04:15 AM

Dear Bipul Vhai

Seeking for you kind permission, would you pls allow me to share in details about the “Woven bottom consumption ” for those who send request regarding this issue in your blog

( For those only who need this )

In Apparel sector there are 2 types of Merchandise, One is Woven merchandise ( Such as Shirt , Pant , Blouse etc ) & the other one is Knit merchandise ( Circular Knit :- Tee shirt , Polo shirt ,Fashion knit :- Sweater Etc ) . Merchandiser is the key person of this sector, who communicates with Buyer or Buying house to get an Order. The procedure of getting an order from a buyer, merchandiser got an inquiry directly from a Buyer or from a Buying house. In that inquiry buyer ask for price of his desired garments, it may be in Woven fabric or In Knit fabric. For quote a price, merchandiser must calculate fabric consumption first, coz fabric price cover more than 60 % of that quoted Price.

As a Merchandiser, for any type of Garments Consumption calculation, first we have to know what type of garments we are going to make. For that, we need to know the specific parts name & the measurement of that particular garments parts. Measurement may be in inch or in centimeter (Measurement in Inch for American order & Centimeter for European order). That’s need to calculate consumption. For accurate measurement we need to make a “Paper pattern “ or “CAD pattern “ first . pattern is the sketch combination of different parts of a garments .

We all know every part of garments have its LENGTH & WIDTH measurement. Basically on woven garments, we calculate the consumption in Yard/ Doz (2.54 Cm= 1 inch & 36 inch = 1 Yds,). In that case we also need to know the Width of that particular fabric which we are going to use. Now we will calculate each of the separate part based on this Length & Width. to have the total consumption, for this we can use Separate part formula as below:-

(LENGTH X WIDTH) X Number of Parts pcs or Panels / Fabric Width (Pls consider suitable sewing allowance with each length & width for each application.)

After calculate the consumption of all t part this way, now we will add all that separate parts consumption tighter ,than we will add wastage percentage based on the fabric nature which we are going to use for that particular garments.

We can also workout the consumption of a bottom item by using the below “Solid formula for calculate consumption"

Solid formula for calculate required Fabric consumption / Doz :-

(Total LENGTH X Total WIDTH ) X Number of Parts pcs or Panels / Fabric Width X36 inch = (Total + 5 % Wastage) X 12 Pcs= Result in ..Yds / Doz .

In here

Total Length = Inseam (Length) + Back rise (Including West band ) + Sewing Allowance (S.A )
Total Width = ½ Thai + Sewing Allowance

** we can also calculate
( A) Back rise without West band
( B) Parts pcs = there is 4 pcs of 1/2 Thigh as a bottom item has 2 Leg
(C) We multiply the total measurement with 36 inch to make the result in yds which was in inch before
( D) For wastage percentage the calculation depends on the nature of fabric shrinkage or elongation on wash & others effect
**{We calculate this wastage percentage lowest ( 5 % ) on Regular fabric but for Stretch fabric it may stand up to 25 % based on the nature of the Fabric}

To be continueReply

tamimApr 10, 2012 04:19 AM

Dear Bipul Vhai

Seeking for you kind permission, would you pls allow me to share in details about the “Woven bottom consumption ” for those who send request regarding this issue in your blog

(Rest part of previous Discation )

For batter understanding we can follow below Example :

Say we have the bellow measurement of a "Basic Denim long pant" :-

Inseam = 34 inch,
½ Thai= 13 inch,
Back rise (Under West Band) =15 Inch
Waist band width =1.5 inch,
Back pocket length = 7 inch,
Back pocket Width = 6.5 inch
Belt Loop length =1.5 inch,
Belt Loop Width = 1/2 inch
Pocket Bag Length = 7.5 inch
Pocket Bag Width = 6.5 inch

The Formula is :- ( Length X Width ) X No of panel / ( Fabric Width X 36 inch ) + Wastage Percentage = Result X12 Pcs

Calculation: - In Here

Total Bottom Length = Inseam + Back rise + Wbw + Sewing allowance.( Wbw =West band width )

Total Bottom Width = 1/2 Thigh +2“ Sewing allowance

So, Length = 34+15 + 1.5 *2 +3 = 55 Inch.
Width = 13 +2 =15 Inch

Say the actual Fabric Width is 58 inch, but when sewing a garments as we can’t use the edge of a fabric , so at the time of calculation we must deduct 1 Inch from the fabric width . I.e. fabric width will be 57 Inch.

Now the Applicable Formula :-

( Length X Thigh ) * 4 part /( Fabric Width X 36 inch)

= Result + 5 % Wastage

= Result for 1 Pc X12 pcs

= Yds / Doz

Based on above information we found

Main Fabric Consumption :- (55 Inch X 15 Inch) X 4 Pcs /57 inch X 36 Inch + Wastage 5% X 12 Pcs

=( 3300 square inch / 2052 square inch )+ 5% Wastage X 12 Pcs

= {1.61 Yds +0.08(Wastage)} X 12 Pcs

= 1.69 Yds X12 Pcs

= 20.28 Yds /Doz.

Back Pocket Consumption = (7”X 6.5 )=44.5 X 2 pc / 57 X 36 =91 /2052 =.044 +.0022=.047 X12 Pcs

= 0.56 Yds / Dz

Belt loop Consumption = (1.5”X .5 ) = .75 X 6 pc / 57 X 36 =4.5 /2052 =.0022 +.0001=.0023 X12 Pcs
= 0.028 Yds / Dz

Total Fabric =20.28 yds +0.56 Yds+0..28 Yds = 20.84 Yds / Dz

For Pocketing Fabric :- Length =7 .5 inch X 2 Ply +1 inch (SA )=( 15+1) inch = 16 inch

Width = 6.5 inch X 2 Ply + 1 inch (SA )= 14 inch

= ( 16 inch X 14 inch )2 pcs /(43 inch X 36 inch)
= 448/1548

=.29+5% wastage=.28+.0145=0.30X 12 Pcs =3.65 Yds Per

So we can say, based on above measurement we need 20.84 Yds main fabric & 3.65 Yds pocketing fabric to make 12 Pcs Basic long pant. this way we can calculate fabric consumption for any quantity

Caution :- Friends pls keep in mind that as market is so competitive now a days , so when a buyer ask for a price quotation no matter how experience you are but pls don’t take any risk. Always figure out practical consumption by the help of your Pattern master & believe me that will be the perfect for your organization.

Thanking you on be half of Mr.Bipul
(The owner of this Blog )

Md. Tahidul islam Talukder ( Tamim)
Sr. Merchandiser
True Lotus Inc.