Stitch Defects in Fabric

Presented By : Shourov Hasan


There are various kinds of stitch defects like:

 Boardy: The knitted fabric becomes boardy (a stiff or harsh hand) when the stitches have been knit very tightly.

 Cockled or puckered: If the knitted fabric is cockled or puckered, it is due to uneven stitches or uneven yarn size.

 Dropped Stitch: This is an un knitted stitch caused either by the yarn carrier not having been set properly or the stitch having been knitted too loosely.

 Run or ladder: A run or ladder indicates a row of dropped stitches in the wale.

 Hole: A large hole or a press off is the result of a broken yarn at a specific needle feed so that knitting cannot occur.

 Tucking: This is the result of an unintentional tucking in the knitted fabric. This is also called the bird's eye defect.

  Float: This is caused by a miss stitch which is the result of failure of one or more needles to have been raised to catch the yarn.

Regards

Bipul

Identification of knitted fabric defects

Presented By : Shourov Hasan


It is very natural that in the course of knitting fabrics, imperfections occur. The imperfections may be the result of faulty yarn, knitting machine malfunction or improper finishing. The defects in knitting construction are considered in terms of appearance and nature.

Various Types of Defects in Knitted Fabrics

Bands and Streaks 

There are different kinds of bands and streaks that may occur in knitting. Some of the popular defects are as follows:

 Barrie Effect: A Barrie effect has the appearance of a stripe with shaded edges. It is horizontal in weft knits and vertical in warp knits. The barrie effect is caused by various factors like:

» Lack of uniformity in yarn size, color or luster.
» Mush tension on the yarns during knitting one section of the fabric.
» Uneven shrinkage or other finishing defects.

 Bowing: A line or a design may curve across the fabric. This bowing is the distortion caused by faulty take-up mechanism on the knitting machine.

 Streak or Stop Mark: A straight horizontal streak or stop mark in the knitted fabric is due to the difference in tension in the yarns caused by the machine being stopped and then restarted.

 Skewing: Skewing effect is seen as a line or design running at a slight angle across the cloth.

 Needle Lines: Needle lines or vertical lines are due to a wale that is either tighter or looser than the adjacent ones. This is caused by needle movement due to a tight fit in its slot or a defective sinker.

Regards
Bipul

Garments defects (Part 4)

Presented By : Shourov Hasan


Garment defects, classified according to the various manufacturing stages are:

Spreading defects in garment:

Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required. Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread. Narrow fabric, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits missing. Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. Fabric spread too tight or too loose. This will result in parts not fitting in sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances. 

Not all plies facing in correct direction (whether 'one way' as with nap, or 'one way either way' as with some check designs). This happens when fabric is not spread face down, face up, or face to face as required. Unacceptable damages in the garment parts. Parts not fully included owing to splicing errors. Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies caused by excessive static electricity. Plies are not spread accurately one above another for cutting. This results in mismatching checks.


Cutting defects in garment:

Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts. Top and bottom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high a spread. Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled, omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric .drill marks, which are misplaced, wrong drill to suit fabric, omitted, not perpendicular through the spread. 

Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed. Knife cut. Garment part damaged by careless use of knife, perhaps overrunning cutting previous piece. Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread. Garment parts have bits missing at edge of lay. If too tight or too loose then garment parts are distorted. Slits opened inaccurately or omitted.

Garment twist

A rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment. Twist may also be referred to as torque or spirality.

Regards

Bipul

Garments defects (Part 3)

Presented By : Shourov Hasan

Various defects in garments:

      broken buttons

      broken snaps

      broken stitching

      defective snaps

      different shades within the same garment

      dropped stitches

      exposed notches

      exposed raw edges

      fabric defects

      holes

      inoperative zipper

      loose / hanging sewing threads

      misaligned buttons and holes

      missing buttons

      needle cuts / chews

      open seams

      pulled / loose yarn

      stain

      unfinished buttonhole

      zipper too short

To be continue ....................

Garments defects (Part 2)

Presented By : Shourov Hasan


There are certain quality related problems in garment manufacturing that should not be over looked:

Sewing defects - like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same colour garment, but usage of different colour threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in between, creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some sewing defects that could occur so should be taken care of.

Colour effects - colour defects that could occur are difference of the colour of final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong colour combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.

Sizing defects - wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from other, for example- sleeves of xl size but body of l size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too.

Garment defects - during manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colours.

To be continue ............

Garments defects (Part 1)

Presented By : Shourov Hasan


For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name amongst consumers and fellow companies it is important to maintain a level of quality. In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment.

For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products.

However quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets. There are a number of factories on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.

The national regulatory quality certification and international quality programmes like iso 9000 series lay down the broad quality parameters based on which companies maintain the export quality in the garment and apparel industry. Here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for export basis:

1. Overall look of the garment. 
2. Right formation of the garment. 
3. Feel and fall of the garment. 
4. Physical properties. 
5. Colour fastness of the garment. 
6. Finishing properties 
7. Presentation of the final produced garment.

To be continue...................

Fabric Inspection: Sample size & Inspection Conditions.

Presented By : Shourov Hasan


Sample size

The best is 100% but could be costly. As an alternative a smaller sample size could be decided considering the available time, space, equipment and staff. Often a 10% sample is inspected to obtain an estimate of the quality.

In inspecting a sample, a representative sample should be drawn at random. A stratified sample-would give a better picture.


Inspecting conditions

The inspected results would depend on the conditions under which the inspection is performed. It is essential to indicate these conditions when preparing a report.

(1) light- top light the light recommended is two fluorescent tubes, 40 w, parallel to each other, perpendicular to the direction of the fabric, about 4 feet above the surface, back light defused light.

(2) Speed a speed of 15 - 20 yds. per minutes is normally used, but should be decided on (he. type of fabric, nature of the defects and the end use.

Regards
Bipul

Fabric Inspection: 6 point's system

Presented By : Shourov Hasan

6 point’s arc assigned according to size of defects. 

Length of             Defects             Penalty points

                                      0 - 25 cm                                     1

                                     25 - 50 cm                                    2

                                     50 - 75 cm                                     3

                                     75 - 10 cm                                     4

                                    100 - 125 cm                                  5

                                    125 - 150 cm                                  6


Some European buyers use this method and express the quality level based on 100 sq.mtrs.

Regards

Bipul

Fabric Inspection: Graniteville 78 system

Presented By : Shourov Hasan


Penalty points are assigned according to size of defects.


Length of                    Defect                        Penalty points

Up to                   9' or up to 25 cm                         1

                     9" - 18" or 25 cm - 50 cm.                  2

                   18" - 27" or 50 cm - 75 cm                   3

                27" - 3 6" o r 7 5 cm -1000 cm                4 

This is mostly recommended for use; where larger garments are to be cut while fabrics of wider widths.

Regards

Bipul

Fabric Inspection: 10 point system

Presented By : Shourov Hasan 

Penalty points are assigned according to size of defects.

Warp direction

Length                   of defect                    Penalty .points

Up to                         1"                                      1

                              1” - 5"                                   3

                              5"- 10"                                   5
 

More than                10"                                      10 

Weft direction

Length of                 Defect                            Penalty points

Up to                         1"                                        1

                               1"- 5"                                     3

                            5" -  half width                           5 

More than             half width                                 10 

Maximum penalty points per yd. are 10. 

Defects within 1" of selvedge disregarded.

Regards

Bipul

Fabric Inspection: 4 point system

Presented By : Shourov Hasan 


Important points to be considered wiring inspection as follows:

1. Defect must be measured length \ vlse.

2. Maximum penalty points per yard are 4.

3. Defects within 1\2" oe selvedge not considered.

4. Acceptance level up to 40 points/100 sq. yards. (depends on biter & supplier) as per asq

5. Above 40 points /100 sq. Yds lot will be rejected / 2nd quality. (depends on buyer & supplier)

6. Defect must be marked by arrow sticker/color thread.

7. Fabric length, width, roll no, defect and other information must be recorded properly.

8. result: per 100 sq. yards as per asq

9. Result: per 100 yds. As per kta.


Penalty points are assigned according to size of defects for 4 points system :

Warp  and    Weft Directions

Length       of defect       Penalty points

Up  to            3"                     1

                    3"-6"                  2

                    6"-9"                  3

More than       9"                    4


Maximum penalty points per yd. are 4. Defects within 1/2" of selvedge disregarded.

The system is recommended for use where smaller - defects are critical and for fabric of wider widths and also this is very suitable for sample inspection.

Regards

Bipul

Fabric Inspection

Presented By : Shourov Hasan

Objective of Fabric Inspection:

The objective of fabric inspection is to ascertain whether the fabric received is ol" I he expected Quality standard or not. The main objective is detection of fabric defects and nonconformance as early as possible. So that the time and money are not wasted in the manufacturing, process. The ultimate goal of any quality control activity in clothing' industry is to satisfy the customers.

Importance of Fabric Inspection:

As we know that fabric are the main and costly raw materials of a garment. So it is very important to use fabric efficiently and control wastage of fabric. On the other hand fabric defects are the maximum defects of garments, for which many-unexpected problem may occur in a clothing industry. Such as- short shipment, discount, low price etc.

To avoid all above problems and to take preventive measures fabric inspection is very important for a clothing industry. It is also important for the following aspects:

1) Improve product quality


2) Minimize waste


3) Reduce the cost


4) Avoid short shipment/Order cancellation.


5) Increase productivity



A fabric inspection only addresses itself to patent defects because they are the ones which can be recognized by a reasonable inspection. Any reasonable inspection can be performed by using Grading System.


Grading Systems

There arc-different types of standard grading systems in practice. A system is agreed or selected by mutual acceptance between supplier and buyer. Some of the available grading systems are given Below:

(a) 4 point system


(b) 10 point system


(c) Graniteville '78' system


(d) 6 point system


(e) Dallas system


Regards
Bipul

Stitches & Seams Analysis (Part 01)

Presented by : Mr. Mukesh Halari. 

 Apparel Manufacturing

By S. H. Shin, Ph.D.

Stitches & Seams Analysis


Objectives:

1. Define stitch classifications, characteristics, and formation.

2. Identify seam classification, types, and uses.

3. Relate the properties of stitches and seams to production costs, performance, and quality.

4. Examine functions, characteristics, and selection of sewing threads and needles.

5. Examine the relationship between needles, thread, and fabric.

6. Analysis seam appearance and performance.



Stitches and Seams



Standards that defined stitches and seams:

1. The United States Federal Stitch and Seam Specification (Federal Standard 751a) in 1965.

2. ASTM D 6193, Standard Related to Stitches and Seams



Definitions

1. A Stitch: is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.

2. A Seam: is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.

3. A Stitching: consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for decorative purpose or finishing an edge.



Stitches


Stitch classification is based on:
1. Structure of the stitch

2. Method of interlacing stitch properties.




Stitch properties:

1. Relate to aesthetics and performance


o Stitch size

§ Stitch length, width, and depth.

o Thread tension

o Stitch consistency.




Stitch properties: Stitch size


Stitch Length:

Stitches per inch (spi)

1. High spi

o Short stitches: High quality

o Potential problems (seam

o Pucker or weaken fabric).

o Higher spi, the more time and thread, high cost.


2. Low spi

o Long stitches: Lower quality

o Problems: Less durable,

o Snagging, abrasion, grin through

o Fast, less thread, less cost.


Example:

Men’s shirts 22 spi vs. 8 spi




Stitch properties: Stitch size


Stitch Width:

o Distance between the outermost lines of stitches.


o Refers to the horizontal span covered in the formation of one stitch.

o Referred to as gauge, (inch)

§ Example: overedge, zigzag, and cover stitches (1/4 inch)



o Width dimensions require multiple needles or lateral movement of thread carriers:

§ Example: needle bars, lopper’s, or spreaders.







Stitch properties: Stitch size

Depth:

             Distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch
         
             􀂄 Example: Blind stitches (Curved needle with lateral movement)



To be continue..............................

How the Chain Stitch Work?

Dear All,

Please find below the details step by step image of Chain stitch.

Thanks
Bipul

Costing Format

Dear All,

During the costing or pricing some times we forgot to include the cost of some small items. Which can be harmful for the manufacture as well as for us. But if we have any format of costing then the percentage of mistake (during the costing) can be reduce.

So, today I'm publishing a format of cost sheet for all of you.  Please find below the format of cost sheet.

Due to some technical problem of internet at present I'm unable to upload the file in excel format. So, you will get the above format now in JPEG.


If any one want to get the "costing sheet" file in excel format then please mail me with the subject "Costing format". Please also must introduce yourself in the mail. I will send you excel file of costing format. Email subject must be "Costing format"

Please note that,, if you really want to get the excel costing sheet, then please mention your Name, Designation and Company name. If you are a student then you can mention your institution name.   

Please send me email (not comments) with the correct subject as mention above. 


------------------------------

Thanks & Best Regards

Enamul Haque Bipul

E-mail: ehbipul@gmail.com

Skype: bipul1984

Mob: +8801717264756

http://www.apparelmerchandise.blogspot.com

How the lock stitch work?

Dear All,

Please find below the step by step image of lock stitch.

Industrial Sewing Machine Classifications

Different kind of sewing machine

Dear All,

Normally for sew cloth & attached the trims we use various kinds of machineries. Today we will learn about some different kinds of sewing stitch & industrial sewing machine.

Normally these machineries which are used for sewing in apparel industry are called industrial sewing machine. Details of sewing stitch and machine are as under


Industrial Sewing Machine

A. Lock Stitch Machine (ISO stitch code – 300)

B. Chain stitch Machine (ISO stitch code – 100 & 400)

C. Hand Stitch Machine (ISO stitch code – 200)

D. Welding bonding Machine



A. Lock Stitch

1. General Lock stitch -> 01 (one) needle and 02 (two) needle sewing machines

2. Zig Zag Stitching  ->  Zigzag stitching machine, and embroidering sewing machines

3. Blind stitching  ->  Blind stitching machine

4. Special lockstitch  ->  Buttonhole machine, bar tack machine and button stitch machine.


B. Chain Stitch

i) Normal chain stitch (ISO stitch code – 100)

ii) Double chain stitch (ISO stitch code – 400)

iii) Over-edge chainstitch (ISO stitch code – 500)

iv) Covering chainstitch (ISO stitch code – 600)


i) Normal Chain stitch(ISO stitch code – 100)


1. General chain-stitch -> Blind stitching and basting

2. Chainstitch blind stitching -> Chain-stitch blind stitching machine

3. Special single chain-stitch -> Chainstitch button sewing machine


ii) Double chain stitch (ISO stitch code – 400)


1. General double chain-stitch  ->  01 (one) needle to multi-needle sewing machine

2. Zigzag stitch  -> Zigzag sewing machine

3. Special double chain-stitch  ->  Eyelet buttonhole machine

4. Compound stitch  ->  Safety stitch machine (interlock machine)


iii) Over-edge chain stitch (ISO stitch code – 500)


1. Compound stitch  -> Safety stitch machine (interlock machine)

2. Various over lock sewing machine


iv) Covering chain stitch (ISO stitch code – 600)


1. 02 (two) needle, 3 (three) needle and 4 (four) needle sewing machine




C. Hand Stitch Machine (ISO stitch code – 200)

1. General hand stitching  -> hand stitching sewing machine

2. Special hand stitching  -> Wrapped-around button stitch machine.

D. Welding bonding Machine

1. The work to be processed is welded or bonded or bonded as a substitute for seams.



Regards
Bipul

Learn Apparel Merchandising Learn Fashion Design.

Fabric Finishing Machinery (Part 02)

Details of Fabric Finishing Machinery


Presented by: Subash
E-mail: sreesubash12278@gmail.com

Stenter

• Stenter is used for Heat setting the Elastane blended fabrics and also for the drying process.
• Clips and pins are being used to hold the fabric inside the chambers where hot air is circulated by using nozzles in different conditions according to the process. (For Example – for heat setting the hot air temp would be around 200 deg C and for drying the hot air temp would be around 160 deg C).
• Over feeding technology is provided to improve the physical characteristics of the fabric such as shrinkage,GSM,etc.,
• Normal finishes as well as specialty finishes can be carried out with the padding attachment given in the machine.
• A Weft Straightner can be included in the feeding zone to control the spirality of the fabric. 

Compacting

• Compacting is an important process to improve the Dimensional Stability and the hand feel of the fabric.
• The fabric will be passed through felt or rubber or metal shoe arrangements on a cylinder which should be heated by using steam and the fabric gets required dimensional stability when it passes through the compacting units.

Raising

• Raising is a process to add value of the fabric.
• Normally fleece / loop knit fabrics which are having loop structure in one side will be undertaken for the raising finish.
• Raising effect will be occurred by using drum contains the piles and counter piles made by needles will rotates opposite direction of the fabric passing.
• Sueding and peach finishing is nothing but the mild brushing of the fabric surface by using bristles made on nylon. 

              Author : Mr. Subash 

              (Tripur, Tamil Nadu, India)

Fabric Finishing Machinery (Part 01)

Details of Fabric Finishing Machinery


Presented by: Subash
E-mail: sreesubash12278@gmail.com

Tubular Padder

• Water extraction by squeezing the fabric between two rollers leaving homogenous water content throughout the fabric
• Stretching and squeezing of the fabric to remove all crease marks as well as to control the Lengthwise shrinkage which obtained in the dyeing process.
• Applying softener to impart softness to value addition of the fabric

Slit open

• Hydro extraction of the fabric
• Opening the fabric from tubular form to open width form using the knife attachment
• Conveyor belt facility provided to reduce the lengthwise stretch on the fabric which will improve the physical property of the fabric.

Relax Drier

• Drier is used to remove the excess moisture content of the fabric.
• Both Open width and Tubular form of fabric can be dried with relaxation which will be used to improve the Dimensional Stability of the fabric by the way of Over feeding technology.
• Top and bottom nozzles are used to spread even heat energy on the both side of the fabric to get even drying of the fabric.

Fabric Finishing Machinery (Part 02)

Sewing Stitch Description

Description of Different Kinds  Sewing Stitch 

Stitch Name: Single thread blind stitch

ISO Stitching Code number: 103 (Blind Stitch)

Use in process: Blind hem, belt loop etc.

Face View

Back View

(Not visible on back)

Stitch Name: Lock Stitch (it is the most common stitch)

ISO Stitching Code number: 301 (Lock Stitch)

Use in process: Top sin or top stitch, straight stitching, single needle etc.

Face View

Back View (bobbin thread)

Stitch Name: Double needle Lockstitch

ISO Stitching Code number: 301 – 02 (Lock Stitch)

Use in process: Double top stitch

Face View

Back View (bobbin thread)

Stitch Name: Zig Zag Lockstitch

ISO Stitching Code number: 304 (Zig Zag)

Use in process: Sportswear, Athletic wear

Face View

           

Back View

Stitch Name: Chainstitch

ISO Stitching Code number: 401 (chainstitch)

Use in process: Shoulder to shoulder back tape stitching etc.

Face View

Back View (Looper Thread on bottom)

Stitch Name: 2 needle chainstitch

ISO Stitching Code number: 401 – 02 (chainstitch)

Use in process: 2 needle seam stitching.

Face View

Back View (double looper thread on bottom)

Stitch Name: Two needle cover stitch

ISO Stitching Code number: 406 (Bottom Cover Stitch)

Use in process: Cover seam, Belt loop, Neck Binding,

Face View

Back View (Looper thread)

Stitch Name: Three needle cover stitch

ISO Stitching Code number: 407 (cover stitch)

Use in process: Elastic attaching of boys & men’s under wear

Face View

Back View

Stitch Name: Two thread Overedge

ISO Stitching Code number: 503

Use in process: Blind hem & Serging

Face View

   

Back View

Stitch Name: Three Thread Overedge

ISO Stitching Code number: 504 (1 needle thread with two looper thread)

Use in process: 01 needle Overedge seaming

Face View

Back View

Regards
Bipul